Necessary Gear for Abalone diving
Last Modified 23-May-2000
Valid California State Fishing License
Anyone 16 years and older must have a fishing license to
take any kind of fish, mollusk, invertebrate, amphibian, or
crustacean in California. If you stay within 500 yards
(457.2m) from where you launched, you can leave your license
locked in your car at the beach. If you are using a kayak or
inflatable boat, put your license in a little waterproof bag
and stow it securely on the boat.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
The MINIMUM fine for fishing without a license
is $250.00.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Annual Resident Pacific Ocean-only license ($16.55)
AND an Abalone Stamp/Report Card ($12.60) are
required to take abalone. California
F&G
Abalone Gauge
(see regulation)
Illustration:
Fixed caliper ab gauge
Every ab diver is required by law to have a fixed caliper
measuring gauge while diving for abs. Some ab irons have the
gauge built in to the handle (see below), my personal
preference is use the deep jaw gauge, it's easier to measure
abalone over the top of the shell. (see measuring
an ab)
Abalone Iron
(see regulations)
Illustration:
Ab Irons
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Abalone are hemophiliacs; one small cut and they will bleed
to death. This is why the edges of the iron are rounded and
smooth.)
IMPORTANT PERSONAL SAFETY
NOTE:
Whenever you attach an ab iron/flashlight/camera to your
wrist with a lanyard, make sure the lanyard is the
bungie-type; this makes escape easy >> Just pull and
you pop free.
(The non-bungie lanyards will very likely KILL you if your
ab iron/flashlight/camera gets entangled underwater in a
panic situation. Most peoples first response to panic is to
pull away.)
Wet Suit
The ocean in northern California range from 42 to
60°F (5 to 16°C) on the surface, so a 1/4" (6.5mm)
Jacket and Farmer Johns with a hood, boots, and gloves is
highly recommended.
Since ALL sport diving for abalone in California (north of
the mouth of San Francisco Bay), is breath hold only (see
regulation);
there is no way to free dive with a dry suit comfortably. (A
good friend of mine used his custom neoprene dry suit the
first time he went and got a slight suit squeeze. The other
draw back to a dry suit is many times you're out free diving
for 3 to 4 hours and the tinkle factor asserts itself,
STRONGLY.)
What makes a good wet suit?
- Fit
- Flexibility
- Low water infiltration
- Attached hood (or hooded vest)
- Skin-in (slick rubber inside) Some of the new
interior coatings are very slick.
- Spine Pad
- Custom fit
Gloves
Fins and Booties
- Open-heel, adjustable strap fins (I currently use:
Cressi-Sub Master Frogs; Aqualung Blades are good; XL
Scubapro Jetfins are good but heavy. After switching to
Master Frogs, the Jetfins feel like spongy bricks. I dove
them for over ten years before switching.)
TIP:
Make sure to reverse the straps OR tape them back so they
don't snag the kelp every chance they get.
(Streamlining)
- Good sized fin blade with no angular leading edges to
snag kelp.
- Tough soled 1/4" (6.5mm) boots for walking across the
rocks and beach
TIP:
Make sure your fins fit with the boots you
have; too loose and you have no control of your fins, too
tight and your feet will cramp up.
Mask
- Low volume (when free diving, you only have one
breath to work with; why would you want to put most of
into you mask?) Also, low volume masks have much less
drag than high volume masks. (Streamlining)
- Black silicone skirt (between dives you are on the
surface a large amount of time looking down and a clear
silicone skirt allows sunlight into your mask from above;
causing a lot of glare.) Custom
mask
Snorkel
- Large bore
- Short barrel
- No purges (they can fail and they reduce the
effectiveness of the displacement clear)
- No sharp bends
- Conforms to the contour of your head
- Comfortable mouth piece
Weight Belt
- Rubber webbing (When put on snugly on the surface,
it's self-compensating for the compression of your
wetsuit.)
- Small cylinder weights (1 and 2 pound)
- Weight keepers to securely hold the weights in
place
- Quick-release, stainless steel buckle
- Wire type
Once on it holds very securely; but, releases with a
simple pull on the buckle
- Standard
Make sure it has a solid pin for the pivot (not the
little tabs that fit into holes on the buckle; the
cheapies can fail easily because the tabs wear down or
the buckle is slightly bent)
- No hooks to catch on things (Streamlining) If you
need to attach things to your weight belt, use 1"
Fastex
plastic buckles with the male half on your belt.
Game Bag
- nylon mesh (allows water flow so abs don't
suffocate)
- metal or plastic frame to hold the top
open/closed
Each ab diver should have their own game bag and
gauge.
Some kind of dive platform
Boogie Board
Illustration:Boogie
Board
- advantages:
- very easy to launch from the beach
- easily transported (can be packed in the trunk of
your car.)
- can lay on it and swim
- very controllable
- almost indestructible
- very little maintance/up keep (just rinse in fresh
water)
- disadvantages
- short range (only as far as you can swim)
Abalone Tube
Illustration:
Ab Tube
- advantages
- very easy to launch from the beach
- easily transported (can be packed in the trunk of
your car.)
- can lay on it and swim, not as controllable as the
boogie board
- you don't need a goodie bag when using an ab tube
(the abs get thrown in the center of the tube, along
with all your other gear)
- very little maintance/up keep (just rinse in fresh
water)
- disadvantages
- short range (only as far as you can swim)
- inner tube can be popped
Sit-On-Top Kayak
Illustration:
Dive Kayak
- advantages:
- relatively easy to launch from the beach (usually
need two people to carry the kayak to the beach face
OR you can construct a kayak dolly: 2 balloon tires on
an axle, one on each side of the kayak, mounted on a
frame that can be strapped to one end of the
kayak)
- fairly long range and relatively fast
- storage space for food, water, other gear
- plastic kayaks are almost indestructible but can
sink if you get a hole below the water line.
- very little maintance/up keep (just rinse in fresh
water)
- disadvantage
- can be tough to handle in the surf (should
practice before attempting surf, timing is everything
because you cannot duck a breaking wave on a
kayak)
- fiberglass kayaks can crack or shatter if you get
caught and tumbled in big surf near rocks.
- need a roof rack for transporting the kayak
- you and your buddy each need a kayak (there are
two man kayaks but they are big)
Inflatable Boat
Illustration:
Inflatable
- advantages:
- range only limited by fuel (and maybe the puke
factor on rough days :^) )
- carries multiple divers and lots of gear
- very fast when compared to human propelled craft
(see above)
- disadvantages:
- only the small (less than 15 foot [4.6m])
inflatables can be launched from the beach (and this
requires a lot of work from 5 to 8 people)
- maintance (mainly engine and electrical systems
[depth sounder, GPS, etc.])
- yearly registration fees for boat and trailer
(these aren't expensive; but, fines for not having
them could be.)
- need a trailer to transport (I know a few people
with 12 foot [3.6m] boats that they transport
deflated and rolled up; but, this means a lot more
work before launching)
A means of anchoring your dive platform
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Inflatable boats should always carry an
appropriate anchor, chain, and rope (it's not wise to trust
the kelp to hold anything larger than a kayak.)
TIP:
If you are going ab diving early in the season
(April or May), have an anchor, chain, and rope for your
boogie board, ab tube, or kayak. (After the winter storms,
there's not much kelp left on the surface.)
TIP:
Always use a bowline knot in addition to the
standard splice with hollow-core, poly rope. (Tie a bowline
with about 6 inches [150mm] of tag end and then
splice the tag end back into the rope.) This way your ropes
are neat and the splices will never slip.
TIP:
When attaching a rope to an eye (like the one
on a clip), use a lark's head. (Tie a bowline loop, put the
loop through the eye, put the clip through the loop, then
pull the loop back through the eye; look at knot joining the
chain and rope [below])
- A grapple anchor with 6 feet [1.8m] of chain
and 100 feet [30m] of braided poly rope on a
spool (This is the anchor system I use on my kayak, you
will need a bigger anchor and more chain for an
inflatable.)
- be careful not to get the anchor hopelessly
snagged in the craggy bottom
- the anchor holds onto the bottom and the chain
keeps the anchor on the bottom (no chain and the
anchor will easily "walk" or "drag" due to the wind
and waves moving your float.)
Illustration:
anchor rigged with chain
- 15 feet (4.6m) of 1/2" (12.7mm) braided, hollow-core,
poly rope with a brass clip works well
- find a raft of kelp
- make sure it's anchored to the bottom* by pulling
on the kelp
- wrap the rope four or five times around five to
ten stalks
- clip the rope back on itself
*A friend of mine anchored his kayak to a thick kelp
mat and didn't check to see if it was anchored. When we
finished our 45 minute scuba dive, he had a quarter of a
mile (400m) swim to catch his kayak.
Illustration:
clipped to kelp
- A "safety pin" fish stringer on 40 to 50 feet (12 to
15m) of rope will work well, if you can dive down and
find a kelp hold fast to put the stringer through. This
setup also works well for anchoring on the surface to
bull kelp.
Illustration:
hooked thru holdfast
Illustration:
hooked thru Bull kelp
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Last Modified 23-May-2000
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